Our adventure began with three vessels setting sail from Nanaimo, gliding southward in search of marine life in the tranquil waters of the Southern Gulf Islands. These waters, rich in biodiversity, often hold secrets beneath their surface, but today luck was not on our side. Despite our careful search through coves and channels, the whales remained elusive. In the world of whale watching, patience is key, but flexibility is even more important.

With no sightings in the islands, we made the decision to switch plans and head out toward the more open waters of the Strait of Georgia, exiting through Porlier Pass. This narrow, scenic passage separates Galiano and Valdes Islands, and as we navigated through its currents, we were hopeful for new opportunities. Our luck shifted when we received an exciting update from another tour boat: a trio of humpback whales had been spotted nearby. This is one of the many beautiful aspects of whale watching in British Columbia—companies frequently share sightings to help ensure that everyone has the best possible experience. After all, it’s a vast ocean, and teamwork makes all the difference.

We quickly set our course and before long, we were with the humpback whales. The trio—Neowise (BCY1228), Meqe (BCZ0492), and Strike (BCX1675)—was travelling together, moving with that slow, powerful grace that only humpbacks can achieve. Humpback whales are well known for their long migrations and complex social dynamics. Though they’re often seen in pairs or small groups, these associations can change rapidly, making every encounter unique.

Watching these three whales side by side was mesmerizing, their flukes rising from the water in near synchrony before disappearing again into the depths. Humpback whales are easily identifiable by the unique patterns on the underside of their flukes, and it’s always a pleasure to see familiar whales return to the Salish Sea. We were especially excited to see Neowise, a whale that has captured the hearts of many of our staff over the years.

As we observed Neowise, Meqe, and Strike, a sudden, dramatic movement caught our eye—a whale breaching in the distance! We quickly made our way over to investigate, finding Notcho performing powerful breaches and tail slaps. The sight of a whale launching its enormous body out of the water, and crashing back down with a thunderous splash, is always a highlight. It’s a moment that takes your breath away and leaves you in awe of the sheer size and power of these gentle giants.

As we watched, Notcho (BCX1700) was soon joined by Hendrix (BCY1278), and together they shifted from their lively display to a more focused, steady travelling pace. It’s always fascinating to observe the changes in whale behaviour—one moment they’re celebrating with playful breaches and the next they’re moving with purpose, perhaps heading toward feeding grounds.

With so much action on the water, our boats split their attention. Two of our vessels returned to Neowise, now swimming solo. Meqe and Strike had moved on, and Neowise, a favourite among our crew, was travelling at a more leisurely pace. Humpbacks are known for their fluid social structures, and it’s not unusual for them to form and dissolve groups quickly. Spending time with a single whale like Neowise offers a deeper connection, allowing us to focus on the individual’s behaviour and movements.

Meanwhile, our third boat had its own special encounter with another humpback: Honu (BCX1856). Named after the Hawaiian word for "sea turtle," Honu is a whale we’ve seen frequently in these waters. Honu provided our passengers with an exciting experience, slapping their pectoral fins on the water and breaching out of the water. These kinds of intimate encounters are what make whale watching in British Columbia so rewarding—every whale has its own story, and every day on the water brings something new.

As if the day couldn’t get any better, one of our vessels spotted yet another humpback whale: Frankenstein (BCX1358). Easily recognized by its distinct scarring, on the underside of his flukes reminding people of Dr. Frankensteins’ monster being stitched together. On this day, Frankenstein was travelling another less frequently seen humpback whale: Twinning (BCX1207)!

After hours of whale watching, all three of our boats converged at a favourite spot: Stinky Rocks. True to its name, this rocky outcrop is home to a bustling colony of Steller sea lions, whose strong, fishy scent gives the area its colourful moniker. As we approached, the raucous sounds of the sea lions filled the air. Massive males roared loudly while lounging on the rocks, while smaller sea lions darted in and out of the water with surprising agility. Alongside them, harbour seals basked in the sun, seemingly unbothered by the noisy antics of their larger neighbours.

As the day began to wind down, two of our boats took the scenic inside passageways back toward Nanaimo, while the third ventured along the outside. This decision led to one last surprise—an encounter with another pair of humpback whales: Stripe (BCZ0004) and an unknown companion. Stripe is one of the older whales we regularly see, with his first sighting dating back to 1994. His age and experience make each encounter with him special, and seeing him travel alongside a new, unidentified whale was a fitting conclusion to an incredible day on the water.

All three boats made their way back to Nanaimo Harbour, each crew and set of passengers carrying memories of the day’s encounters. From the acrobatic breaches of Notcho to the peaceful presence of Neowise and the steadfast travel of Stripe, our day on the Salish Sea had been full of surprises and unforgettable moments. Some of these moments were captured by the onboard marine Naturalists Aly Kolhman, Val Watson, and Vanessa Vereschahen.

September 19, 2024 - Rowdy Humpbacks near Valdes Island

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